Days 7-11: They don't sell Slurpees here, as far as I can tell.

So.

First of all, sorry for the lack of bloggage… I’ve been so tired/busy at the end of my days that I haven’t had a chance to talk about all the amazing things I’ve been doing!  This is super long, and if you want to read it in shifts, feel free.  That’s how I’m writing it.  Haha.

Friday:

Went shopping with Irina at the Selver and bought two cute pairs of flats, both at least half off, because it was Independence day, so there were many sales which I was thrilled about!  Secondly, we bought lots of hangers and things for me to use to help unpack my room and get all settled in finally, which was great, so that was nice.   I finally unpacked my stuff and got all my stuff put where I wanted it, and even got a little nap in.  God knows I love a good nap.

Later, we went down to the Freedom Plaza for one of the most moving musical moments of my life.   They were trying to host the world’s largest digital song festival and there were probably a thousand people in the square watching a bunch of monitors of people from all over the world who were singing along with the music festival that was happening in Tartu, and being filmed both in Tartu and in Tallinn.  The people I was with in Tallinn were watching a broadcast on a different huge screen of the Tartu choirs singing and the director and the words were on the screen.  It was the most amazing feeling to be standing there singing these songs with Irina who has lived through so much of the awfulness of this country and just of this world in general, and be hearing the amazing songs of the people who have fought so hard for their freedom during my lifetime, and probably yours.  There was a baritone standing behind me with his impatient girlfriend, and he sang so well and between him and hearing everyone else, I got chills every time there was a new song.  Of course, Independence Day is not complete without a few fireworks, and boy was I glad that Estonia was clear on this concept.  We saw some fireworks (they were in Tartu, because there’s not a ton of fireworking space in Tallinn) and then went to the Pizza Americana that I’d taken a picture of before, and ate yummy deep dish pizza there.  Irina’s son, Hannes, and his family knew we were going to be down there, and they were sort of looking for us and thought we might be in the pizza shop (…am I that predictable?  But it was Irina’s choice!!!?) and we were, so we two became we six and we all ate together and it was fun.   It also was some of the best pizza I’ve had, better than some American pizzas in fact.  Take that, America.

Interesting fact about Pizza Americana.  I walked in, and saw a group of 4 adults sitting together, signing to each other.  Clearly intrigued, I stole multiple not-so-furtive glances at them, and discovered they were actually signing in American Sign Language.  I didn’t want to be a creepy tourist who butted in and was like “HEY I KNOW SIGN LANGUAGE TOO WOW YOU’RE DEAF” but I’m just intrigued because they must have learned sign language with American signs but to Estonian words.  It was very strange to wrap my head around.

Saturday: 

Oh Saturday.  Saturday was Irina’s birthday.  She had told me the night before to sleep till whenever, that people probably wouldn’t start coming till like 10 or so, and that I could sleep in.  That’s 10 in the morning, so we’re clear, folks.  So, I decide I’m going to sleep in until 10, because she countered that no one would actually get here then, because she hadn’t told people when to come, but so they probably actually wouldn’t come till lunch time.  Wrong.  As my alarm at 10 is going off, I hear people downstairs.  They actually came at ten.  So, I get up and get showered and put on a dress because that’s what I’ve decided I’m wearing for the party because it’s a party, and get downstairs and the people there both predominately don’t speak English, and are mostly all arguing over a tree that they’d brought for Irina’s birthday.  In Estonian.  In work clothes, mostly.  So.  I feel seeeeeriously out of place and out of style, but I helped as much as I could in the debate that lasted about 30 minutes as to where to put the new tree, and we got it planted (I am not the “we” here, but part of the collective mass) and were onto new subjects, mainly me and why I was there.  I met her daughter and her two grandchildren, Leitirin and Karlimar (both have combined names of their grandparents of each side… Leit and Irina are the grandmothers, but Irina is a Russian name so they shortened it.  Same with Karl and Imar.)  I gave Irina the presents I’d brought her from America, and told her I’d make margaritas with her.  She’s thrilled.  We can’t wait.  She says she can’t read the directions though, so we’re going to make them together.

For the first bit of this party, I was mainly sitting and not speaking or being spoken to because most of the people didn’t speak English, and talked really quickly, so I couldn’t pick out much out of their conversation.  Syrie and Ivar, Karl’s sister and brother-in-law, came and they were kind as well.  Many people filtered in and out all day, and in true Irina fashion, each time a new guest or set of guests arrived, everyone was required to eat another full plate’s worth.  I have never been so full and satisfied in my life.  We had some things I loved, like wonderful fruit salad and American ribs that were so great, and grilled Estonian pork, and veggies (who knew raw zucchini was good?).  We had things I didn’t love so well like pickled herring salad (includes pickled herring and pickled beets…and red onions…yum.) and celery salad and things I wouldn’t try again.  But my parents will be proud, as should the rest of you be, in that I lived out my Estonian motto which is:

I will try anything and everything once.  If I like it, I’ll try it more than once, and if I don’t, I won’t.

So, I tried everything there, and liked some and didn’t, but it was a good experience.  I ended up playing lots of games with the grandchildren, including many rousing rounds of badminton(ish) which led to tennis(super ish) and darts and soccer and the kids were great fun, except that 3 out of 4 total grandkids didn’t speak English either, so that was interesting.  They’d come up and babble to me in Estonian, and I’d sort of smile and nod.  However, because me and alcohol are still not such good friends (we’re speaking again, cordially, in very formal terms like you’d talk to a priest handing you Jesus juice), I had one glass of champagne that lasted me basically through the whole 12 hour day, and since I was running around like a crazy lady with the kids, water was an acceptable choice of drink.  On the other hand, two bottles of vodka were finished, I stopped counting how many bottles of wine were finished, and a bottle of cognac was opened but not finished to my knowledge.  Every ten seconds (or whenever she remembered), Irina would clink her little vodka glass to have people drink which is how she ended up so “tired” hahahaha.  That night, while totally stumbling drunk, she showed me many fun things in her house including pictures and drawings, and told me she was just very tired.  I told her that meant drunk, and she said no it just meant going to bed.  Hahaha.  The two grandchildren from earlier stayed overnight with us, and I ended up going to bed around 11 or 12 because I was falling asleep with Leitirin and we both turned in for the evening because we had quite the day the next day.

Sunday:

So, I had asked (at the urging of my spiritual and Estonian guide, Sarah Cushman) to go see Karl dance, because he does the old folk dancing at the Estonian Open Air Museum, and in full Estonian National Dress which is a big deal.  This happens on Sundays, but we needed to leave fairly early for having just thrown a large bash all the last day, so getting up and around Sunday was a challenge for all.  But, up and around we got, and got the kids ready and all got in the car (during which time, I will add, I ripped my jeans in the thigh trying to get in because they were stiff and worn, and it was very unfortunate) and were off to the Open Air Museum.  The dancing was absolutely amazing, and I was so thrilled to be able to both see it and be a part of it.  Karl grabbed me for some of the dances, and told me in his broken English that I’m a good Estonian dancer.  Go me!

The Open Air Museum used to be a sea village, so there are houses and places to look around, so we did that, partly by horse tour, which was totally great, and ate lunch there.  We had typical Estonian soup (with meat and dumplings, and of course dill, which is in every soup here) and typical Estonian bread that was kind of the consistency of coffee cake, with the taste of cornbread.  After looking around a little bit, we left, and went and saw a scenic view of one of the beaches where many people were flying kites because it was so windy, and then went to Keila Joa, which is a waterfall that’s part of a hydroelectric plant, where there is a bridge that houses one of the most romantic places I’ve been in a while. 

This bridge, has locks that have been engraved and locked onto the bridge by couples who have gotten married, and then they throw their keys into the water below.  It is such a simple but beautiful notion, and there are locks everywhere.  The main bridge is full of them, and around the park there are more locks placed in different places, like by the gardens and on a different, smaller bridge.  It was gorgeous, and I just loved it so much.  It made me miss Tim quite a bit, but it was a very hopeful and romantic place and I was glad just to be there.  Again, ten thousand thanks to Sarah on the suggestion.  What a great place.  We got ice cream (jäätis) and headed to a different port where there was a cool shipwreck in the sea that you can see from the docks.  Ivar told me it was from yesterday… I laughed.  We watched the ships come in, and it was just very serene and beautiful.

We went to Syrie and Ivar’s house for dinner and …bum bum bum… the sauna.  For someone who is fat and consistently hot, the idea of sitting in a hot box for any amount of time is not particularly cozy like it’s meant to be.  But, the mantra says… so we did.  We had a FANTASTIC dinner… perhaps my favorite since being in Estonia.  Marinated pork kebabs with red and yellow peppers, homemade dill pickles, and homegrown tomatoes.  SO. GOOD.  I could have kept eating, if not for the fact that a. I was stuffed, and b. I was about to go get naked, so there really was no point in getting that much larger.

We went down to get ready for the sauna, and I was explained that this is how the sauna-ing works.

1.        Men go down.  Men get naked.  Men go in the sauna.  Men rinse off.  Men come upstairs.

2.       Women go down.  Women get naked.  Women go in the sauna.  Women rinse off.  Women come upstairs.

3.       Repeat step 1.

4.      Repeat step 2.

5.       Repeat step 1.  Add a final shower to clean off entirely.

6.      Repeat step 2.  Add a final shower to clean off entirely.

I have never felt so instantly uncomfortable, and then so instantly comfortable, with my body.  It was whatever, you know?  The mantra says, so I did, and I am not sure I’d choose to do it again, but I did it.  There we sat in this swelteringly hot tiny box of a room, sweating until we were wet like we’d just gotten out of the shower, and in between sittings, I’m downing water like it’s my job, while the other two ladies are sipping their Sauvignon Blanc.  I’m not a full Estonian yet, clearly.  In the final shower, I didn’t wash my back right away because I can’t reach so well, you know, so there I am with this lady who speaks no English (Karl’s sister Syrie, because Irina had already gone) and she says something to me in Estonian, and starts washing my back.  I found it hilarious, and jokingly said, “Ooh, sauna AND a massage” and then laughed, and I think she only laughed cause I was laughing.  It was funny and I did it and it’s done.  Now I know what to expect.

After cleansing my body of all its toxins and walking around all day, I was one tired tiger.  I went home and instantly passed out.  Surprise, it was 9:15 pm.

Monday:

FIRST DAY OF SCHOOL!!!!

…for like…15 minutes.  Haha.  I got to the school, did a little bit of work, did a little bit of copying, went to an assembly, got on a bus, and headed to the retreat that we were taking the upper school to for the next day and a half.  The roads are all being paved and I couldn’t read without feeling like I was going to puke, so I fell asleep and woke up in Käsmu, another little sailor’s village in the northwest part of Estonia.  We brought the 6-12^th graders here with 7 other teachers, not including me and Ms. Karolina, to bond and start the year off right.  Within 20 minutes, we had a bleeding head injury, but he turned out to be fine. 

I led Capture the Flag in the afternoon, which turned out to be QUITE the hit, and Triin, the PE teacher said, “You’re our favorite student teacher!”  I led games again later that night, like People Bingo, and Speed Dating, little get to know you games, that once again went over very well, with both the kids and the teachers.  In fact, the teachers said if I needed letters of recommendation, they’d all be happy to give me one, but they’d also be happy to sign a petition if I’d prefer.  Hahah.  After the evening games, Ms. Liivi and Ms. Karolina and I went on a walk around the village, and saw lots of gorgeous sights, including a beautiful moon rising over the water.  It was gorgeous, no matter how many bug bites I acquired.

Screw mosquitoes. 

We got back and helped get kids to bed, slowwwwwwwwwly but surely, rigged some of the windows with PE equipment to help guard against sneaking out, and then went back and passed out ourselves.  Fun fact about Eastern Europe (maybe all of Europe??  I’m not experienced enough to know.):  If you’re given a sheet with a hole in it, it’s for putting your blanket inside of.  It keeps it clean and warmer and it’s apparently a “duh” thing that Americans don’t get.  I was like…who ripped my sheet?  … Well now you know, so you don’t repeat that mistake.

Tuesday:

We conned one of the cafeteria ladies into opening a little early for the teachers to get coffee so we could get a head start on our jolt for the day, before the kids were really in our faces.  We had not, however, planned on having 6^th graders (6^th grade is consisted of 5 boys and 1 girl) out running around in loops at, quite literally, like 7:00 am.  Breakfast was at 9:30.  We got up slowly, and made our way to the coffee and got to sit and just chill and chat with the teachers, and it was really nice.  We chatted after breakfast too for a while, and it was good to feel like I had a community to belong to also.  It was great.  It also was pouring today, so we had kids mostly stay inside and get ready to go back to Tallinn. 

We got back to school around 1, at which point we were all officially dismissed, but Ms. Karolina and I decided to stay and work on some other things, which took us until about 3:15 or so.  We both left together, went to look about some super cool rain boots I will buy, come hell or high water (pun both not and definitely intended), and then caught the busses home.  Around 5, I got home, and realized I hadn’t eaten since 9:30 this morning, so I worked on that, and then have been posting pictures since.  Now it’s 5 your time, and I’m aching to go to bed, and you don’t need much more to read I’m sure, so I’ll leave you with this:

I’m reading Eat, Pray, Love right now by Elizabeth Gilbert, and I have never been so inspired by an author in my life.  I am trying to embody her and her spirit in everything I do, and she is totally wonderful.  Pick it up, read it, embrace and love it, and then travel if you can like she does.  She’s inspiring, really.

I’m out for now.  More tomorrow!

Maintain,

Virginia